Koi Forum (Nishikigoi - Japanese Koi Fish): KOI Talk: Pond Construction & Water Filtering System: Filter Medium Cost

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Filter Medium Cost

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Mohd Nordin Yusof
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May 6, 2000, 4:26 AM

Post #1 of 22 (2269 views)
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I have finished the constructions of my outdoor pond, size 17.5*5*4.5 fts and the filter size 3*11*4 fts with 2 biological chambers of 3*3*4 fts each.

I want to fill these biological chamber with Green Matting but based on my recent survey one piece of this cost me RM280.00 and to fill the chmabers I need 26 pieces. The total Cost for this is RM 7200++ and it is very expensive to me..

Can you guys guide me on how to minimise this part. I have these question on my head right now:
- Do I need to fill up these two chamber with green matting only in order to maximise the biological effect?
- Can I space it up in between to reduce the total piece of green matting, and how many pieces is enough?
- Can I use a charcoal for both chamber since it is very cheap? What is the impact on water quality?

Thaks in advance for you reply.

MNY

------------------
MNY

Khoobg
Webmaster

May 6, 2000, 5:02 AM

Post #2 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello MNY,

Congratulations on your completed pond. Your future should be happy in that 12 tons pond you make for them.

Refer to the following photo :-

You can infact use rectangular square section of the green matting to space them. By spacing them, the cost will not be that high.

You also need to pay some attention to your settlement chamber. Ability to trap heavy fish waste and dispose them regularly will spare your koi a lot of trouble in the future.

Khoobg
Webmaster

May 6, 2000, 5:04 AM

Post #3 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello MNY,

Not to forget to prepare points for filter aeration before putting your green matting into the filter compartment. Sufficient oxygen will ensure your filter operating at optimum conditions. Smile

Mohd Nordin Yusof
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May 6, 2000, 5:11 AM

Post #4 of 22 (2269 views)
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Thanks guys,

Now I think I only need ten pieces to fill its up. It is very good idea too to provide the space for filter aeration which I almost forgot.

Very appreciate it..

------------------
MNY

Hans Ham
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May 6, 2000, 12:54 PM

Post #5 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello M.N.Y.
If you cut your matt. 3ft long and 12"to14"wide.,have it about 10"of from the floor ,use three spacer at one row,10"wide
Going with the flow of water.
5 pieces will be ok.

rdgs Hans

Ben
User

May 7, 2000, 11:51 PM

Post #6 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hi Hans Ham,

In my opinion, since the amount of bacteria that will colonize the bio filter will depend on the surface area make available to them, by reducing the green matting from 10 to a further 5 pieces will practically reduce the capacity to half.

Wouldn't it be better to fill the bio filter with 10 pieces and make full use of it for achieving better water quality ?

Mohd Nordin Yusof
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May 17, 2000, 1:47 AM

Post #7 of 22 (2269 views)
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Thanks Hans Ham and Ben for Tips.

I do agree wint Ben that reducing the number of Green Matting will reduce the impact of bio fliter. It would reduce my cost if only 5 of it but based on the thinking to maxmimise the impact and to reduce the cost at the reasonable figure I think 10 is find.

------------------
MNY

Hans Ham
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May 17, 2000, 10:42 AM

Post #8 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello Mny,
Of course it is entirely up to you, how many matting you want to use.But, have you ever heard of Aerating the filter ?
If you Aerating the filter the bacteria will colonise much faster and it is more effective as having more matting in the filter and also cheaper.For the price of two matting you can buy one hi-blow40 but the decision is yours anyway.
Note: for Ben.
ONLY the TOP FEW INCHES OF FILTER MEDIA can support AEROBIC (Oxygen ioving)bacteria,regardless of the overall media depth.
Hans

(This post was edited by Hans Ham on Apr 5, 2001, 2:00 PM)

Ben
User

May 17, 2000, 11:58 AM

Post #9 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hi All,

Many have said that the filter size need to be 30% of the pond surface area. So what is the standard of filling this 30% space.

In the case of MNY, even if he has provided the 30% space, by providing 5 pcs or 10 pcs of green matting will mean providing different filtering capacity.

I generally think that in the case of MNY, he should provide 10pcs of green matting with redundant aeration to achieve maximum filtering capacity with the 30% provided.

So what is your opinion ?

Khoobg
Webmaster

May 18, 2000, 3:39 AM

Post #10 of 22 (2269 views)
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In the settlement chamber, brushes or carl net are normally placed to strain the flow of water so that heavy fish waste can be trap at this stage.

The bio filter however should not strain the water flow and there must be some gap within green matting as shown in pic above. In the case of MNY, 10 pcs will definitely be the best choice as while we do not want to strain water flow, but we want to have the maximum bacteria colonization in these bio chambers. Since 30% of space has already been provided, then the space must be fully used to achieve optimum results.

Cheers Smile

Hans Ham
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May 18, 2000, 4:30 AM

Post #11 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello
Pls. one more time.
No point to fill up the filter chamber,all the way to bottom ,as only the top few inches of media can support aerobic involding bacteria,regardless of the overall media depth ,as the 30%of S.A.will be full used with 5pc.
You only restricting the flow of water.
this is my opinion as it has been demonstrated,but everybody have his one way.
Ipromise i wont disscuse this matter anymore,but i will be available to proof this point once und for all,
Have a nice day

Ben
User

May 18, 2000, 12:26 PM

Post #12 of 22 (2269 views)
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Well I think as long as sufficient aeration points are place throughout the bio filter and hook up to a strong Hi Blow, you will be able to supply sufficient oxygen to these aerobic bacteria to treat your water

Dr Ho
New User

May 18, 2000, 1:27 PM

Post #13 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hello Ben
Do not use high blow otherwise the bubbles created will *blow* away all good bacterials leaving nothing in your filter media.

Dr Ho, DVM,
University of Scotland

Ben
User

May 19, 2000, 1:27 AM

Post #14 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hi Dr. Ho,

We normally use Hi-Blow 40 watt for the pond filter. In view of the fact that the air bubble need to be forced out at a depth of 3 feet (filter depth), the use of Hi Blow 40 is necessary to ensure the compressed air is of higher pressure than the water pressure at 3 feet depth, hence able to provide sufficient air bubbles.

Ronald Pang
New User

May 27, 2000, 1:41 PM

Post #15 of 22 (2269 views)
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Dear Hans

From your recent posting on bateria colonisation, I understand that it is not essential to have deep filters. Does that mean that filter media beyond a certain depth from the water level is redundant? Bacteria will not live below a certain depth?

If that is the case, how does one achieve sufficient volume of bacteria on limited filter media to tackle the ammonia? For the Singapore whether, what volume(percentage) of the filter media is necessary to made good water?

In your opinion what is the ideal depth?

Thanks

Hans Ham
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May 28, 2000, 2:22 AM

Post #16 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hi Ronald,
Check your email ..
Regards,
hans

Mark
Veteran

May 28, 2000, 9:21 AM

Post #17 of 22 (2269 views)
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Quote

Originally posted by Ben:
Hi Dr. Ho,

We normally use Hi-Blow 40 watt for the pond filter. In view of the fact that the air bubble need to be forced out at a depth of 3 feet (filter depth), the use of Hi Blow 40 is necessary to ensure the compressed air is of higher pressure than the water pressure at 3 feet depth, hence able to provide sufficient air bubbles.

Total dissolved gas concentrations in water should not exceed 110 percent. Concentrations above this level can be harmful to your fish. Fish in waters containing excessive dissolved gases may suffer from "gas bubble disease". The bubbles or emboli block the flow of blood through blood vessels causing death. In this respect, I am specially concern with hobbyists who uses venturi and/or high in-depth blowers.

ET
Novice

May 31, 2000, 11:11 AM

Post #18 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hi ,

Mark , in ur opinion u mention that the oxygen percentage shouldnt be over 110% ...
may i ask how do we check the percentage of the oxygen level..??

Mohd Nordin Yusof
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Jun 10, 2000, 7:47 AM

Post #19 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hans Ham

I would realy appreciate if you could elaborate to me your findings. Seems very ideal if I can have only 5 pieces and get it work efficiently. Many other member will be get the benefir too.

chlou
Novice

Jun 12, 2000, 11:53 AM

Post #20 of 22 (2269 views)
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Very interesting discussion so far.
I am building a concrete pond, approx 10'x18'x4.5'. May I know what is the best way to design the filter pond to suit our local conditions i.e. the cheapest and most effective means and easiest maintainance Smile

Mohd Nordin Yusof
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Jun 13, 2000, 12:59 AM

Post #21 of 22 (2269 views)
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Hai CHLOU,

I build my pond in front of my house around 5' away from my balcony separeted by parthway. The idea is to keep Koi and combine it with water plants collection. It would cool off my house in our climate if add a waterfall attach to the pond. Mine is in progress.

I think your mentioned pond size is ok if you thinking to surround it with garden plants and other member also seem to have it that size. Mine is 17.5'*5'*4.5' because of water gardening purpose.
I choosen DIY technic to save cost and it proven effective. My total cost for pond and filter chamber of 11'*3'*4' is around RM5000 only with the pond is 100% concrete enforce by steel iron. You can get the steel iron from metal yard shop, it sells by Kg. I paid handy man to help me with the concrete wall but you have to supervise them almost all time, if you have one. Make sure you add water proofing liquid into cement preparation
to prevent leakage and to make your walls hard enough for water weight. Wall and floor thicknes is around 6" to 8".

Perhap other member can add the alternative for you to begin with.

Good luck and enjoy it.

------------------
MNY

Khoobg
Webmaster

Jun 20, 2000, 7:25 AM

Post #22 of 22 (2269 views)
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Quote

Originally posted by chlou:
Very interesting discussion so far.
I am building a concrete pond, approx 10'x18'x4.5'. May I know what is the best way to design the filter pond to suit our local conditions i.e. the cheapest and most effective means and easiest maintainance Smile

Hi chlou,

Welcome to the forum.

Please read the following thread for more information on pond filter building.

http://www.koi.com.my/...um6/HTML/000005.html

http://www.koi.com.my/...um4/HTML/000029.html

Cheers Smile

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