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Filter Media - which is best

 




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KokJong
User

Dec 11, 1999, 5:25 AM

Post #1 of 20 (60272 views)
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Filter Media - which is best Can't Post

Hi friends,

1. I'm wondering which are the best filter media at various stages of filteration process.

2. It seems that most of us use brushes in the first chamber. I used bio balls instead. I can tell you using bio balls is a chaos when cleaning. In the end, I've to replace them altogther, easier and less time consuming in maintenance.

Feel free to comment.

Regards.


Anonymous
Anonymous

Dec 11, 1999, 11:01 PM

Post #2 of 20 (60219 views)
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Hi to all,

mine is an outdoor garden pond and I recently (7 Nov) got a new 3 chamber biofilter box of 1.6x0.61x0.77 m,ie, 0.75 ton gross. But the water, etc only goes up to 0.6 m and the nett contents so to say is 0.585 ton or slightly less. The pond is 3 tons capacity.

1st chamber contains 40 kg coral and 12 kg ceramic rings all interspaced with synthetic fibre mats. 2nd chamber is 20 kg coral and 15-20 kg of ceramic rings and the synthetic fibre mats. 3rd chamber is 14 kg ceramic rings and 2 kg sintered glass and the usual synthetic fibre mats. There is a bottom flow outlet valve for each chamber.

Whilst I've used coral despite some earlier postings here that it might have adverse effects, this is due to cost. I get the coral at $10 for 10 kg (means $1 per kg) whereas the ceramic rings cost me $6.50 per kg. This is the cheapest I could find whereas if you get the siporax german made stuff (ceramic rings made from sintered glass) the cost is $35 per kilo. The 2 kg of sintered glass in the 3rd chamber cost me $42 per kilo and it looks like dog pooh. Everything is packed in net bags for easy removal/cleaning.

Another topic here - Biological Media - advising that the synthetic mats when placed vertically (mine are placed horizontally) should provide adequate space for the bacteria. Just pack them end to end. Concept is very interesting and would also avoid using coral chip. But every move costs money and these mats are not cheap. Merit of course is that its light and much easier to clean - better than lugging bags of coral.

Don't mind changing my first chamber to vertical matting placed end to end to try it out but would appreciate comments from others who have had experience doing it this way.

Cheers !



Khoobg
Webmaster


Dec 12, 1999, 11:35 AM

Post #3 of 20 (60220 views)
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Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi everyone,

For big garden pond where the ease of filter maintenance is important, I would suggest the use of the following fitler media :-

1) Use either brushes or carlnet for the settlement chambers. Carlnet is easier to clean than the brushes ( just by moving up and down and by spraying with pond water).

2) For the biological filter, use synthetic green matting that provide a big surface area for bacteria and will not affect the others properties of water such as pH,....

3) Use bioball for the wet & dry trickle filter


Oh Tian Huat
User

Dec 13, 1999, 2:46 AM

Post #4 of 20 (60219 views)
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What is Carlnet?
I use black garden netting, those hanging in the air to protect the plants from rain and sun. My friend next door use fishing net and he is happy too.
-oh-


Khoobg
Webmaster


Dec 13, 1999, 4:01 AM

Post #5 of 20 (60220 views)
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The following pictures show the use of carlnet for the settlement chambers :-







The pictures show Mr David Ngie's pond filter. For more information, just visit http://www.koi.com.my/d13.htm


KokJong
User

Dec 13, 1999, 9:10 AM

Post #6 of 20 (60219 views)
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Melvin,

1. I used a four chambers filter box.

2. All chambers have wiry green mat at the bottom. A layer of filter foam are found on top of the green mat too.

3. I've bio balls for the 1st chamber. Ceramic rings filled the 2nd chamber. The 3rd chamber is occupied with Zerolite. The fourth chamber is clear.

4. I'm thinking of replacing the bio balls with brushes.

5. By the way, I heard coral and clam shells tend to be a breeding ground for certain of worms that are harmful to the Koi. Not quite sure, where I've gotten the info from, can the expert here kindly comment. Thanks.

6. I guess, you should consider putting some zerolite in your filter box. They act as an anti ammonia agent. They can be "recharged" by dipping into salt bath for about 15mins - 30 mins. I used activated carbon b/4 but it is too costly and need to replace regularly.

7. By the way, side track a bit, just thinking aloud, I wanted to hold a FOC Koi photo contest in my web site. Koi fanicers simply submit their Koi photos to a post office box and I'll do the scanning and display it on the web pages. I will try to get some certfied judges to help me to select the winners in the 13 koi types. Do you like the idea? please comment it in the SKC or send me a private mail.

Regards.

------------------


Anonymous
Anonymous

Dec 14, 1999, 4:18 AM

Post #7 of 20 (60219 views)
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Mr Khoo,

Thanks for the advice. Have been thinking further and would like your views on the following:

1. For all three chambers, I place the synthetic fibre mats vertically from end to end.

2. At the top of the matting, I place the ceramic rings. This will be done for all 3 chambers. Dimensions of each chamber is around 24x18x12 inches. I estimate that the top of each chamber can contain around 10 kg of ceramic rings. In order not to waste, will try to pack all the current ceramic rings into the top of each chamber. Water flow in each chamber is bottom up.

The bottom of each chamber is cone shaped and hopefully settlement of the heavier wastes can take place here.

For info the filter has now matured and the water is getting clearer by the day. But I'm not too keen on having so much coral as when the time comes to clean, it will be a real killer.

Hi Kok Jong,

I've never like bio-balls in view of their negative bouyancy but this is just a personal preference.

I don't think coral per se breeds the worms etc. My old filter did not have coral, but I did have blood worms. H'vr understand that this does no harm to the koi. What I also have are some sort of insects which look like crickets but without the long rear legs. Probably some sort of water bug. Not sure whether this is harmful or not but every 3 months I treat with dimilin and problem goes away for a few months and then returns. Any reader offering advice would be appreciated.

Zeolite - please note that re-charge takes 24 hrs. I used a lot of zeolite in my old filter. What I am aiming for now is an all natural solution. No chemcials with crystal clear water.

Koi photo contest - Will reply to your e-mail address.

Cheers!


KokJong
User

Dec 14, 1999, 6:09 AM

Post #8 of 20 (60217 views)
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Melvin,

1. I didn't know Zerolite takes hours to "recharge". I read from the package that claims it requires just 30mins to recharge.

2. How did an all natural filter media get rid of the ammonia apart from changing the water and to add chemical to the water? This question really bugged me. <*Smile*>

3. If the water cld naturally diffuse the ammonia, I don't have a problem to use just the ceramic rings for the chambers. It is easier to maintain that way too.

Regards.

------------------


Anonymous
Anonymous

Dec 14, 1999, 9:05 PM

Post #9 of 20 (60217 views)
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Hi Kok Jong,

Must be some new type of zeolite. The stuff most commonly available takes 24 hrs to recharge.

Believe you are refering to the nitrogen cycle. Based on literature I've read, basically fish produce ammonia and nitrobacta and nitrosomonas then act on the ammonia to turn it to nitrite and then nitrate. The nitrate is harmless to the fish except in very high concentrations. If there is plant or algae, these then consume the nitrate. Hence the need to change water weekly if there is no plant filtration. There are new new types of bacteria sold in the market which further changes the nitrate to nitrogen gas. But to play safe opine its still a good idea to change water of min. 10 percent weekly as other crap will still accumulate in the pond. This is the biological method. Another way of course is via zeolite. The traditional method here is to place the zeolite in the last chamber closest to the water outlet. Hence the bacteria in the earlier chambers will work on the ammonia first and any remaining ammonia left at the end is converted by the zeolite.

One word of caution - its takes 4-5 weeks for any new filter media to mature. Hence if you change from bio-balls to ceramic rings, the bio-filter will in a sense lose one third of its capability for one month. Thus there is a danger of ammonia build-up and it is important that your zeolite is fully functional during this period. Addition of commercially available bacteria does not shorten the maturation time. To me, maturation means getting clear water but clear water does not mean healthy water for the fish. But in my case the pond during the maturation period had lots of algae which also takes care of the higher level of ammonia during this period.

Would appreciate other reads to point out any factual errors which might have occured above.

Cheers!


Khoobg
Webmaster


Dec 15, 1999, 7:41 AM

Post #10 of 20 (60217 views)
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Melvin & Kok Jong,

It is important to have the first stage of filtration system to trap all heavy fish waste and this can be done by brushes or carlnet.

The second stage will be biofilter which you can use ceramic ring or green matting. Green matting alone is good enough but there is no harm to have a combination of both.

Like Melvin mentioned, Zeolite must alway be in the last stage of the system. You must let your biofilter to do the job first. Otherwise, your zeolite will reach its capacity in no time. If your biofilter can cope, do away with zeolite or carbon and keep the filtration system as natural as possible.

Subsequest stage can either be vegetation filter or trickle filter.

Should you need to clean your filter media, always use pond water.

In my case, I pump the pond water for watering my garden every morning. New water is added to top up the lost water.

As for Kok Jong case, bioball is definitely no suitable for the first chamber and you can possibly change to brushes.

That's all

Cheers


KokJong
User

Dec 15, 1999, 8:00 AM

Post #11 of 20 (60216 views)
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Melvin,

1. Thank you for your explaination on the nitrogen cycle. I'm still puzzled on the rechargeing time span of the Zerolite, whether it takes hours or just 30 mins.

2. As advised by Mr. Khoo, I will change to brushes for the 1st chambers very soon. ceramic rings for the 2nd and 3rd chambers. I will then transfer the Zerolite from the 3rd chamber to the fourth chamber leading to the water outlet.

3. Talking about vegetative filteration, which are the recommended plants for such a function? I'm worry about mosquitos and flies.

Regards.

------------------


Eric Lim
User


Dec 15, 1999, 6:25 PM

Post #12 of 20 (60217 views)
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Hi! Happy X-mas & New 2000 yr. to everyone,

I'd noticed some of you are using filter materials that are more design for aquarium filter canister use & costing much more.

May I share with you an article that I wrote which was published in ZNA Nichirin 94-8 No.324, Dec. Issue. This copy was also one of the 6 articles that I'd passed over to MKC Ms.Annie Chan during my last visit in Mar. for MKC to use freely.

Bio-balls - Design mainly for dry & wet spraying system such that it has the ability to spread the water evenly around each ball ensuring full usage of filter space. Also very good Oxygen & CO 2, waste gas exchange rate when spray thru' the air.
* If use submerge - than no point.

Siporax (splinter glass) & Volcanic chips or ceremic rings - if look under microscope, you can see the porous nature of the surfaces. Means - given the same size = has many time the area surfaces for bio. to establish.
** Provided the surface is not clog by waste dust. Once happen - area surface is same as its size only.

In Aquarium keeping (especially Marine keeping), space for filter canister is limited & good gas exchange are very important.

Hope above infor. is useful for all forum friends.


Regards,
Eric



Anonymous
Anonymous

Dec 15, 1999, 8:50 PM

Post #13 of 20 (60217 views)
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Thanks to one and all for their comments thus far, especially Mr Khoo.

We singaporeans have been described as kiasu and kiasi. So I will proceed as discussed. Whilst green matting alone is adequate, since I already have the ceramic rings, might as well also make use of it.

Kok Jong,

In respect of zeolite, I am absolutely 100 percent sure that recharging takes 24 hrs. The 30 minutes recharging type could be some new type of zeolite which I have not heard of. Maybe tech advance has resulted in a quick charging type of zeolite. Since we will be meeting this Sun, bring the label along. We can also discuss about veg filteration then. Meantime,since you have been to NKF, you would have seen a lot of pandan plants and if you look carefully, the pandan plants are placed in the pond filters.

Cheers!


Khoobg
Webmaster


Dec 15, 1999, 10:16 PM

Post #14 of 20 (60217 views)
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Hi Kok Jong,

Like Mr Eric Lim has mentioned, bio ball is best used for wet and dry filter such as trickle filter. Read the following thread where we have some discussion on trickle filter if you wish to know more .

http://www.koi.com.my/...um4/HTML/000026.html


KokJong
User

Dec 24, 1999, 3:47 AM

Post #15 of 20 (60217 views)
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Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

Melvin,

1. Thank you for showing us around your beautifully landscaped pond despite of its size.

2. I bought the cheaper green mat instead of the brushes. I cut and place them vertically in the 1st chamber and the result is good. At last, I managed to do away with the bio balls that are full of slurge.

3. Thnak you for giving your coral to me. I will slowly move the zerolite from the 3rd to the 4th chamber which is empty now. The 3rd chamber will be filled up with the coral..but I've to find a good netting 1st.

Regards.

------------------


Melvin Tan
User

Dec 24, 1999, 7:19 PM

Post #16 of 20 (60217 views)
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Hi Kok JOng,

good to hear that you are making good progress.

Regarding the net bags, you would recall that at my place I had several empty net bags hanging on the railing where the bags of coral were placed. These are very strong and comes in various sizes. The larger ones cost $7 per bag. Bought them at summer but not sure if NKF sells them.

I did the second chamber on 20 Dec and took ammonia and nitrite readings yesterday. Both were at zero. Ph is 7.5. Plan to do the 3rd chamber on 31 Dec 'cos my office is closed.

Cheers!


rekacekap
New User

Feb 4, 2009, 2:16 AM

Post #17 of 20 (31523 views)
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Re: [KokJong] Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi, let me share with all Koi enthu' my koi pond do not have any filter chamber - NOT AT ALL.
It is nearly 9 months and the water is crystal clear. pH, NH, NOs are all in good order.

My pond was constructed by 'New Tech' using ecology system.

These are series of perforated pipes lay on the pond bed and covered with small pepple stones.

Anyone has used this system before ?

Kong


PH8
Veteran


Feb 4, 2009, 2:37 AM

Post #18 of 20 (31520 views)
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Re: [rekacekap] Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi Kong,

How does your system work? Do you use bottom drains at all? Are plants part of your system? Posting some photos may help us visualize it better.. SlySlySly

Cheers,
Paul


(This post was edited by PH8 on Feb 4, 2009, 2:38 AM)


etano
Koi Kichi

Feb 4, 2009, 7:34 AM

Post #19 of 20 (31491 views)
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Re: [Melvin Tan] Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

It sounds like under gravel filter used in aquarium. Do you have any pictures?


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http://www.mykoikichi.com ~ A new blog about Nishikigoi.


Infokoiguy
New User

Feb 11, 2009, 6:17 PM

Post #20 of 20 (31241 views)
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Re: [Khoobg] Filter Media - which is best [In reply to] Can't Post

It seems your images are not working, can you fix them so we can see it? I really want to see the design.


(This post was edited by Infokoiguy on Feb 11, 2009, 6:18 PM)

 
 
 



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