dttk
Senior Member
Jun 4, 2004, 12:38 PM
Post #5 of 22
(2939 views)
Shortcut
|
|
Re: [Lauts] New pond plan for feedback
[In reply to]
|
Can't Post
|
|
Lau  , good morning. Looks like HWong got to you before I did   . Good, more feedback more ideas. I like some of his suggestions too.
Here goes,
1) Bottom drains. I agree with HWong that the 3 main bottom drain pipes should be 6in since you have a large pond. I see that your bottom drains open only to the settlement chamber and from there, there's only one floor drain to the sump. There may not be sufficient pressure to drain the 3 bottom drains efficiently. I feel that each 6in drain should go directly to the sump and to the settlement via a T-joint. What sort of bottom drain cover are you using?
2) L-bends. Your idea of having L-bends connecting the chambers is good as it saves space. This makes it necessary for you to have the standpipe in each chamber. This is fine in the brushes chamber since you'll have to take them out for proper cleaning anyway but in the mats chamber, you'll have problems reattaching the standpipe after flushing the mats, unless you have standing room in the chamber or if you intend to remove each piece of mat for spraying which is done by some members. Let me know which method you prefer . Hwong's idea of having a removable joint at the bottom for filter to continue running at low water levels is good.
3) Surface skimmers. Better to have 4 of these. 2 in the position opposite the falls and 2 more at the opposite wall between the 3 waterfalls. Have 2 venturi at the corner, directed at the opposite skimmers. Do not seal the elbow joint so that vertical limb may be tilted to adjust water flow into skimmer. See attachments. 4) Bottom push. You have not indicated their positions. 2 bottom pushes diagonally opposite each other about few inches above the pond floor should be ok.
5) Bypass to pond. Good idea but I don't use it as I clean the filter all at once twice a year only. Lazy fella I am  .
6) Filter depth. Like HWong, I feel the 6ft depth of the filter chambers are too much. For the sump it is ok. The depth should be width of mat (3ft) + free space below (1ft) = 4ft. Yes, otherwise you'll lose alot more water during filter cleaning.
7) Pumps. If you decide to have water plants, have the water supply for the veg filter come from 2 pumps. That way, if one pump breaks down, the veg filter won't dry up . The water supply to the venturi and bottom pushes are flexible. I do not know the output of a FOK pump. Do some calculations to determine the distribution of the output from the 2 pumps so that in the event of a breakdown, the other pump is still able to oxygenate the pond.
8) Waterfall. Try to create a smooth water curtain to minimise noise produced .
9) Electrical sockets. Make sure you have enough of these in case you want to add more airpumps, UV, etc.
10) Dechlorinator. Recommended. Good to have filtering capabilities too.
11) Air supply. Have 25mm class D PVC pipes concealed in the filter chamber walls to supply air from the Hiblows so that everything looks neat and tidy .
12) Water source. Have a tap with direct mains water having passed thru dechlorinator in the pump chamber. This is used for filter cleaning and topping up water.
Hope I've not left out any important points. If so pls let me know.
Always friendly :)
(This post was edited by dttk on Jun 4, 2004, 12:47 PM)
|
MAIN
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Pond Construct.xls
modified.jpg
I do not plan to have stand pipes other than for the L bend in the chambers. Only standpipes in the sump chambers. Is this OK?