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A GUIDE TO MODERN KOI POND CONSTRUCTION

 






 


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 2:09 PM

Post #1 of 22 (1507 views)
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A GUIDE TO MODERN KOI POND CONSTRUCTION Can't Post

 Pipework for bottom drains


We have looked at bottom drains and it is now time to consider what pipework we should use, and how we are going to lay it out.
The best pipe to use for the bottom drains which are nearly always four inches diameter is uPVC pressue piping. This is considered by some koi-keepers as very important as it will be buried in the concrete, and any failure in the future will mean problems with the whole pond.
The pipe mentioned above is very expensive, and the majority of koi-keepers argue that as it is buried in concrete then it will not be disturbed and so will not give any problems if you use terrain pipe. It is said that this terrain pipe carries away all the waste from the house and is in constant use, but it should also be borne in mind that with a pond the pipe is under pressure all the time which does not happen when used for household purposes.
If you have decided to use terrain pipework then there are two different types. These are easily identified by their colour. One is grey and the other is rustic brown and usually referred to as orange.
They are both the same size and 110 mm in diam.
The orange pipe is designed for use underground and is connected with seal rings, and solvent should not be used. The grey pipe is used for runs above ground, and they are joined together using solvent. They are connected together using fitting with the seal rings.
The fittings mentioned here are to British standards, and will be different in other parts of the world.
This photograph shows bottom drains and pipework laid out using terrain pipe. Bends are used at the end of each pipe and the verticle pipes go straight up to the stand pipes in the discharge chamber.
When ordering bottom drains remember that you require 110mm for terrain pipe, and 4 inch for pressure pipe. When you have decided which type of pipe you are going to use then you need to decide if you are going to connect the bottom drains directly to the main drainage or to the settlement chamber of the filter system. The sketches below show the different ways of doing this. The diagram above shows a typical pond layout where the bottom drains go direct to waste, and the feed for the filters are taken from mid water. This was popular in the eighties, but now the recommended way is the system shown below.

The diagram above shows another pond layout where the bottom drains constantly feed the first bay of the filter system, which in fact is the settling chamber. The drain from the settling chamber is connected to a slide valve, or stand pipe, in the discharge chamber.
This method continously removes waste from the pond, but it is necessary to have a very efficient settlement chamber which is cleaned regularly.

TIP. In the drawings above the stand pipes in the discharge chamber can be lifted to release the water to the main drain. This way was very popular until the mid eighties but now that slide valves and ball valves have come down in price then most koi keepers prefer to use them instead.
With the bottom drain connected to the settling chamber then as mentioned above we need a very efficient method of removing the sediment without losing too much water, and the popular way is to use a Vortex Chamber.


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 2:58 PM

Post #2 of 22 (1499 views)
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Re: [koi@kit] A GUIDE TO MODERN KOI POND CONSTRUCTION [In reply to] Can't Post

 Hi all..

for bottom drain pls refer to the following site..Wink

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/constructb3.htm


(This post was edited by koi@kit on Feb 4, 2006, 3:17 PM)


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 3:02 PM

Post #3 of 22 (1498 views)
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Hi all..
for Mid water pipe work pls refer to the following..Smile

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/const6d.htm


(This post was edited by koi@kit on Feb 4, 2006, 3:18 PM)


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 3:05 PM

Post #4 of 22 (1497 views)
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Hi all.\\

pls refer the following for UV steriliser..Smile

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/const14a.htm


(This post was edited by koi@kit on Feb 4, 2006, 3:19 PM)


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 3:07 PM

Post #5 of 22 (1496 views)
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 Hi all..

for sand filter..

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/sandf.htm


(This post was edited by koi@kit on Feb 4, 2006, 3:20 PM)


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 3:09 PM

Post #6 of 22 (1495 views)
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last but not least.. filter media.. hope all the info will benefits someone who are planning to build a BIG pond..

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/filter8.htm


cheers..


(This post was edited by koi@kit on Feb 4, 2006, 3:21 PM)


Koimann
Koi Lover


Feb 4, 2006, 7:22 PM

Post #7 of 22 (1469 views)
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Cifu,
You starting new company to custom build pond for people?SlyWah,so much info,I read already,got very confused!Unsure


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 7:38 PM

Post #8 of 22 (1466 views)
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master cifu..

the design for begineers lah.. u confused coz it is too easy for u to understand.. i will find something more advance for ur reading pleasureWinkSlySly


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 8:25 PM

Post #9 of 22 (1465 views)
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Hi Kit,

Now adays the second pic system is what pond keepers use like meTongue This will prevent the waste sitting at the bottom of the pond and waiting to be flushed(like the 1st pic) Water quality is a lot better. As long as the pump is running its a 24 x 7 cleaning, non stopSmile I'd say the 2nd pic is the best system,IMHOWink

rgds,
Jon

"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 4, 2006, 9:04 PM

Post #10 of 22 (1464 views)
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master jon..

i think so.. but unfortunately my filter system followed the 1st picture..

dats y d previously i want to suck water from the bottom drain via the stand pipe to TT.. u suggested to BH better..


menghun
Koi Lover


Feb 5, 2006, 11:02 AM

Post #11 of 22 (1455 views)
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yo master cifu kit & Jon,

base on 2nd system that u mentioned, the pond water was fed through the bottom drain & going pass the entire filter chamber then last back to pond by using a powerful water pump right??? if it is like that, i got 1 simple question. The water will continousely flow into the filter through bottom drain due to gravity....how about if there is a power failure n the water pump failed to work, then the filter chamber will overflow right???


cheers,
menghun


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 5, 2006, 12:16 PM

Post #12 of 22 (1453 views)
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menghun..

if power failure the filter chamber will NOT overflow.. as both is filter is using GRAVITY to function.. in simple word, if the pump dont pump water from filter to pond, the water from BD will not flow into the filter. simple?Wink


menghun
Koi Lover


Feb 5, 2006, 5:49 PM

Post #13 of 22 (1442 views)
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yo cifu kit,

got it.....thanks for the clarification.....Tongue


cheers,
menghun


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 5, 2006, 6:18 PM

Post #14 of 22 (1440 views)
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Re: [menghun] A GUIDE TO MODERN KOI POND CONSTRUCTION [In reply to] Can't Post

how about if there is a power failure n the water pump failed to work, then the filter chamber will overflow right???

Hi Menghun,

When the power is off water will find its own level and only way the water will over flow if the filter chambers are lower than the pond water levelSmile

rgds,
Jon

"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 5, 2006, 6:23 PM

Post #15 of 22 (1437 views)
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Hi Kit,

Yes, you can pump from BD to BH but not TT. Its still beter to pump from filter to BS and a must for TT, IMHOSmile

rgds,
Jon

"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 5, 2006, 6:48 PM

Post #16 of 22 (1436 views)
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Hi Kit,

I came up something for you. Tell me what you thinkWink

rgds,
Jon



"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 5, 2006, 9:24 PM

Post #17 of 22 (1431 views)
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yoo master cifu koi38..

i like ur ideas... well i think its a bit easier if i do this..

1. let the mid water flow as it is..
2. no 'new transfer pipe' from new settlement to the old settlement. might use a new pump to go BH.. as recommend by u
earlier..
3. instead of slide valve i use a stand pipe..

reason for 1 is very hard for me to fix a valve, reason for 2 is also very hard to drill a hole n put a pipe through. reason for 3 is
my pipe is buried under cement, better to use stand pipe..

what do u think?Wink


sunshinekoi
Member


Feb 5, 2006, 11:04 PM

Post #18 of 22 (1419 views)
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Koi38,
Sorry to interrupt. I am not too sure how many pump you have planned for this system. It looks as if you need one in the existing settling chamber which you want to be converted to Pre-filter or bio-filter. Another one in the new settlement chamber. If there is only one pump for this new system, say the pump is in the biofilter, the water will tend to draw easily from the pond but from the pond to the new settlement chamber will slow down a lot due to distance unless the bio-filter and new settlement chamber is located parallelly to the pond. Sometime in my opinion, I find it hard to convince myself using the pump to draw water from the bottom of the pond and have the debris/waste travel down and up to the new settlement chamber. If I want to do it, I would prefer to have some kind of sump below the chamber (maybe 1 to 2 feet). The sump will allow the debris to fall and below the sump will have a discharge point which I think can capture most of the waste and have them removed. In another words, the chamber will be deeper than the pond. There is also bad thing about it meaning that if the discharge point is leaking after a long period, water in the pond will be gone either in no time or slowly.

I wasnt too sure about the new transfer pipe though.

Well, never try, never know

Just my opinion.
SunshineKoi


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 6, 2006, 10:11 AM

Post #19 of 22 (1409 views)
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Hi Kit,

1. let the mid water flow as it is.. Ok
2. no 'new transfer pipe' from new settlement to the old settlement. might use a new pump to go BH.. as recommend by u
earlier..
Good pointWink


reason for 1 is very hard for me to fix a valve.
Not enough room I guessSmile
reason for 2 is also very hard to drill a hole n put a pipe through.
Mate you have to swaet sometimes you knowLaugh
reason for 3 is my pipe is buried under cement, better to use stand pipe.. Bugger...stand pipe will doCool

rgds,
Jon


"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 6, 2006, 10:28 AM

Post #20 of 22 (1407 views)
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Re: [sunshinekoi] A GUIDE TO MODERN KOI POND CONSTRUCTION [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi Sunshine,

This setup use one pump only unless you want to add TT or BH then you might need 2 pumpsSmile This is a gravity feed system and the pump will be on the last chamber back to pondWink

My apology, I forgot to mention that this system will only work if you're using 4" pipes. Any pipes smaller than 4" will not work also if your pond size will be 10m x 5m you will need at least two BD's and separate filter set up for each BD.

the water will tend to draw easily from the pond but from the pond to the new settlement chamber will slow down a lot due to distance unless the bio-filter and new settlement chamber is located parallelly to the pond.
If you're talking about up to 6m run of pipe it shouldn't be a problem as long as the pipe is 4" no less.

Sometime in my opinion, I find it hard to convince myself using the pump to draw water from the bottom of the pond and have the debris/waste travel down and up to the new settlement chamber.
I wouldn't pump waste from BD to settlement either. As I mentioned its gravity feed not pump feedSmile

If I want to do it, I would prefer to have some kind of sump below the chamber (maybe 1 to 2 feet). The sump will allow the debris to fall and below the sump will have a discharge point which I think can capture most of the waste and have them removed. In another words, the chamber will be deeper than the pond.
It's even better if you can have it lower than your pond as long as you can flash itTongue You can either flash it by gravity or by using another pumpSmile

rgds,
Jon


"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/


koi@kit
Senior Member


Feb 6, 2006, 10:48 AM

Post #21 of 22 (1405 views)
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master jon..

tks for the advice n suggestion.. have to find myself a new stand pipe for the new settlememnt chamber..Sly


Koi38
Senior Member


Feb 6, 2006, 12:47 PM

Post #22 of 22 (1394 views)
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Hi Kit,

I'm expecting a progress reportLaugh

Good luck mate and let me know the end product will yaWink

rgds,
Jon

"DuKu Friendly"
_____________________________________
"No one is ever too old to know better"

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/Koi38/

 
 
 



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